My partner in Sixties vintage couture crime, artist Joan Davis, called me the other day and said I had to check out Torso Vintages, an ultra cool used couture outlet in San Francisco’s Union Square.

In town just a few days to pedal her flower-powered paintings, Joan had immediately sensed where to dig up archaeological relics of Pucci and Gucci – the way my pug can sniff a German Shepherd or hamburger a mile away.

I jotted down the name to this source for  shifts and clutches. Sure, there are ample consignment shops around in  chic towns like ours, but few sell what connoisseurs consider three dimensional art, i.e. something Jacky O. or Lily Pulitzer would have worn to lunch at Harry’s Bar with the girls. You have to weed through lots of synthetic yardage and depleted, tired boas to find the real gems.

As it turns out, the source she told me about is among the vendors strutting their fabulous stuff on the hottest new online boutique for the real McCoys of vintage fashion style.

Yes, hopeless fashion romantics such as Joan and I are the types 1st Dibs is banking on to do for Geoffrey Beene A-line cloaks and YSL Jockey Hats (above)  what the Web site did for haute  furnishings: Gather the best offerings from dealers around the world to sell for a range of prices.

That range at 1st Dibs cuts a wide swath:

From the doable after a glass of wine with lunch: Whimsical Pierre Cardin sunglasses from the 1960s. $250.

To the the pretty pricey: 1960s Pucci shift, $400, and Ungaro dress, $650.

To the investment statement: M. Haskell 1940’s Multicolored Fringed Bib Necklace USA, 1940’s. $3,250.

To a taste of  Samantha Jones at Versailles: Hermes Birkin of Matte Black Porosus Crocodile. $65,000.

John Hadeed, owner of Torso Vintages, finds 1st Dibs is helping to put him and others in his stylish field on the map in a big way.

“We’ve had calls and emails from all over the country and the world,” the collector told SF Gate.  “We’re dealing with people who really love clothes.”

Michael Bruno, the clever founder of 1st Dibs, hired vintage couture expert Clair Watson (above) to supervise the fashion site and locate the first dealers. They include seasoned second-hand harvesters with a penchant for Hermes, such as Createurs de Luxe, and the owner of the Way We Wore in Los Angeles, a dealer named Doris Watson who is offering her most precious and rare works of art to the website.

The good news is vintage is on a roll because of the recession and our renewed appreciation for classics over buying new junk made abroad.

Check out the site and see if there is anything you can afford (that’s bigger than a size 2 or 4) to add to your wardrobe. All you do is click on the era that suits you (from Deco to Contemporary).

What’s the best deal you can score on the site? Perhaps an undesirable Chado Ralph Rucci evening bag for $175. This is not the place to pluck the deal of the century.

Main Image: 1st Dibs

Image two: Vintage Shopping Guide

There’s “penny pinching” and “getting your money’s worth”, but what happened to “more for your money”? Where went the possibility of making a true investment and feeling secure and confident that yes, you spent your money well?

In these trying, financially frenzied times, the possibility of more of anything is very rare indeed. That’s why UK-based Vintage Academe is so significant. It’s much, much more than a fancy internet shop.

It all began last November 24th when the website launched with little more than a vintage frock or two in stock. Two British fashionistas, with business minds to boot, joined forces and closets to offer the everyday style savvy woman a chance at quality vintage clothing.

Vintage Academe “sources from the most important names in fashion and couture history: Balenciaga, Balmain, Dior, Lanvin and Yves St Laurent, to name a few, as well as a carefully selected collection of unlabelled pieces, chosen for their beauty, historical significance or wearability (and often all three).”

The focus is on quality – the goal is a glamorous selection of beautiful, timeless pieces that will never go out of style. Personally, I’d much rather put my hard-earned money towards a fabulous classic than the latest fast-fading trend.

But the fabulousness doesn’t stop there. Peruse Vintage Academe and you’ll find clothing care tips and The Journal, a blog-like stadium offering the latest fashion news. And of course, there are the Academes or special events held locally to gather like-minded vintage vixens for sharing, exploring and enlightening themselves about all things vintage and couture.

If you live in London and consider yourself a suitable student of vintage, sign up here for the opportunity to apply for an invitation to these exclusive affairs. Do it because I can’t (living in L.A. does have a few disadvantages), and then report back to me all the delicious details.

It’s great to hear women’s entrepreneurial success stories.

Katherine Sturgis fits into one of her own.

After working for several years in corporate fashion, buying and merchandising mass-market items, Sturgis came to a conclusion: big business simply wasn’t for her. Instead, she opted to follow her passion and be more creative in the confines of her own home.

Utilizing “Disparate elements and materials to create pieces that are playful, elegant and above all, wearable,” Sturgis says, she creates chunky sterling silver chains entwined with silk thread, strands of vintage rhinestones, and strings of hand-painted leather.

The result is a one-of-a-kind bracelet representing your individuality and a designer’s success story.

We caught up with Katherine to see what her new life was like.

Do you just love your new life as a designer and not as a buyer or merchandiser?

I love being creative and working with my hands every day. There is more stress in taking all the responsibility, but it is worth it.

How does that past life affect what you’re designing now?

Working as a buyer and merchandiser gave me a wonderful foundation to work from. I learned a lot about the business behind fashion and the designs. I also learned a lot about building a collection and thinking about how pieces will work together to create a story.

You mention your pieces are “glammed-up friendship bracelets.”  Is this where your inspiration started?

I first made the braided wrap bracelet for my best girlfriends, which they then named friendship bracelets. I loved that idea.

Who are you designing for?

I am designing for myself first. But I also design for people with an eclectic sense of style who want pretty jewelry for every day wear and all occasions. I think beautiful things should be worn as much as possible – not only for special occasions. My grandmother once commented that no one wants to wear rhinestones every day. My immediate response was, “I do!”

Does discovering an interesting vintage material inspire you?

Absolutely. I love walking through flea markets. Seeing beautiful pieces gets my mind spinning. It is exciting to work with older things because you have to adapt to the materials and to what is available.

Do you follow trends or make your own?

I think big, sparkly jewelry is very on trend right now, as is mixing materials. I certainly fit into trends on those terms.

Known and adored for his kinetic modern sculptures, paintings and avant-garde mobiles, Alexander Calder was also an eco jewelry maker long before anyone knew what that meant.

During his lifetime, the American artist produced some 1,800 pieces of brass, silver, and gold body ornaments, using wire he twisted into wearable art. Like the stunning flower necklace below, these were often embellished with found objects such as beach glass, wood cuttings, ceramic shards and pieces of mirror.

About 90 of his inventive designs are on exhibit at the “Metropolitan Musuem of Art” in New York beginning December 9th and running through March 1, 2009. Calder Jewelry is the first museum presentation dedicated solely to the artist’s extensive jewelry designs.

According to his bio, the young Calder began collecting copper wire in the streets back in 1906 to adorn his sister’s dolls. That lead to the creation of gorgeous, modern baubles in the 30s and 40s which, like his other installations, were inspired by trees and branches and other shapes and objects found in nature.

Word has it he made many of the necklaces, earrings, bracelets and brooches to give as gifts to his friends and family. Weren’t they the lucky ones! I get banana chocolate chip muffins from my sister but no cool, handmade art.

Among the savvy collectors of Calder’s pieces were artist Georgia O’Keefe and Peggy Guggenheim, two women with discerning eyes, to say the least. Learn more about the sculptor and see more of his fascinating jewelry at the Calder Organization.

The UK is in the grip of the coldest winter in years and in recent weeks heavy snowfalls have blanketed much of the country. Even London had about a foot of the white stuff last week – the heaviest snowfall in two decades – and there’s no sign of it warming up any time soon. Meanwhile, in North America, you’re set for another six weeks of winter – at least according to Punxsutawney Phil.

Why not rug up with one of these beautiful artisanal woolen scarves? The wool is sourced from Britain, the yarns are spun in a specialist wool mill in Cornwall and then woven by artisan weavers in Wales. The company, Blacker Designs, started in 1991 and uses traditional methods on a commercial scale.

From the website:

Wool and other natural fibres are sustainable, high performance raw materials providing warmth, insulation and comfort. We believe it is wrong to use oil-based or high energy alternatives, particularly when such a wonderful resource is finding it difficult to pay its way.

When good design is used, these fibres can be turned into classic, elegant and hard-wearing products that reward those who value and care for them. We believe in creating things to last.

The company recycles most of the waste it produces and tries to keep the remainder to a minimum. By buying British wool, they are supporting local farmers and thus helping to protect the UK countryside from encroaching urbanization.

The scarves come in three main yarns – alpaca, Shetland and Jacob wool with mohair – and some of the special edition scarves also contain Tussah silk (which means the silkworms are not killed). The company claims that all the scarves are soft to the skin and you can either go for natural greys and browns, or bright candy-colours instead. They also have a lovely range of throws and blankets – and knitting yarns for the craft enthusiast.

Stepney Green Park, London

Camelot once ruled the Washington fashion scene, but the times they have changed.

While Jackie Kennedy wowed the throng in lavish couture gowns (such as the one depicted in the figurine above) and the signature Cassini pillbox hat, Michelle Obama will most likely not be following suit, even on Jan. 20th, Inauguration Day.

More the well put-together working mom than DAR dilettante, she opted for slim and tailored silhouettes on the campaign trail, wearing affordable J. Crew on talk shows and a lean, coral Maria Pinto sheath to visit the Bush White House. Even her red and black Narcisco Rodriguez dress (which got mixed reviews) was bold without being brazen. Like the rest of us, Michelle can have fun without breaking the bank. Hilary had fun, too, but her taste level was highly questionable, and Laura Bush just aged herself by playing it way too safe.

But like Hilary, Obama is a loyalist when it comes to buying American and supporting local designers (Pinto is from Chicago). She is said to be extremely sensitive to dressing in a way deemed suitable for the times. As historian Carl Sferrazza Anthony explained it to McClatchy News, first ladies have made statements about themselves and the times they live in throughout history, especially in the post-World War II era. “They are symbols of our country,” he says. “They reflect around the world an image of of our country.”

One such reflection is visible to Brendan Hurley, vice president of marketing for Goodwill stores. He told the Washington Times that thrift-shop merchants report far more customers are hunting for formal wear among the Goodwill’s vintage collection. He says the stores are “a great place to find very inexpensive yet beautiful vintage and contemporary high-end fashions for the inaugural festivities.”(That’s what we’ve been saying.)

Of course another reflection is our dash to go green, but it’s doubtful Obama will consider wearing a recycled gown such as the juicy number Nina Valenti produced for Soyeon Lee at Carnegie Hall…one composed of 6,000 misprinted drink pouches. Perhaps that will have to wait.

Meantime, the first lady in waiting has been reviewing various sketches by top designers (such as Mizrahi, below) which were featured in a Womens Wear Daily piece on What Should Obama wear. The article, written in December, opens with the question: “Who says these are bleak times?” It goes on to say how excited American designers are about this “big catch” and many cannot wait to dress the statuesque Michelle. They include Diane Von Fursterberg and Betsey Johnson (bottom) who might have some interesting gowns but the renderings of Michelle are far from flattering.

I think the designer that captures her best would have to be Lagerfeld (below), who provides a hybrid of Jackie and Hillary in a day and night look for the tailored and sophisticated Michelle. The gown and suit might smack of Chanel but I’ve found similar statements at Nordstrom Rack and even among the knitwear at J. Crew. And if I were lucky enough to attend the highly coveted inaugural ball, that’s exactly where I would be looking for a treasure.

Over the last 12 months, we’ve seen some of the best, worst and most unusual that green architecture has to offer, from shipping container hotels to conference yurts. We’ve seen a host of exciting new ideas brought to the table – and here are a few that particularly won us over.

Bricks and mortar…on water?

It’s been hard to escape the Lilypad this year – thanks to a stunning design, jaw-dropping promotional images and an idea that seems way ahead of its time. A method of living on the two-thirds of our planet’s surface hitherto denied us – and doing so sustainably? Much more appetizing than growing gills, I’m sure we’re agreed.

Except – a nagging doubt. Look at the above picture. The word that springs to my mind isn’t “society” or “community” – it’s “elite”. Are sea-housing projects going to become something that local governments could afford to invest heavily in…or just a series of privately-financed, ultra-exclusive floating Dubais? If sea levels rise catastrophically, would the less wealthy be left stranded?

The Rise of the Truly Fab Prefab

Terraced houses. Entire streets that look exactly the same. Apartment blocks that look like a bureaucrat’s dream Lego set. And all because houses are built before they’re sold.

Let’s imagine something. Let’s say you buy the land first, then go shopping for a house to put on it. It’s a practice only just creeping into the mainstream housing market – and we couldn’t love it more (see here and here). Prefabs all look different, they’re custom built, and they’re testbeds for the cutting edge in new eco-friendly materials. I dream that one day, our children will buy their houses out of a catalogue.

Branching Out and Hanging Around

Tree hugger -”An environmentalist or one who believes trees and all living things should not be cut down or harmed.” In decades past, popularly equated with “nut”. But now, designers are waking up to the potential of living wood – whether it’s affixing human homes within the branches of trees, having trees growing (or “pleaching“) through houses or, most recently, the perfect tree hugger abode. We’re not going to see city-sized Lothloriens or streets looking like Patrick Dougherty sculptures anytime soon…but we’re thinking about it.

Scraping the Sky v2.0

It’s only recently in human history that we’ve starting building upwards on a skyscraping scale. Now these vast structures are becoming self-contained worlds, gathering energy, self-regulating and even growing their own food. So why do they have to be so boxy? They don’t. Take the Superstar (above): a model for a new kind of Chinatown.

Or the amazing pulled-spiderweb shape of the Crystal City, Moscow.

Or this Moon Shaped Skyscraper proposed for Baku, Azerbaijan.

On one level, genius at play – on another, mad as a hatstand. But the wider implication is that skyscraper designers are leaving behind the Giant’s Causeway urban template and borrowing a wider range of shapes from the natural world. More, please.

Buildings That Earn Their Keep

Everything we do around the home expends energy (unless you’re as lazy as I am). We ingest food, it turns into chemical energy, we expend it in mechanical effort. And then, that energy is wasted, usually as heat (friction). Could we divert some of it into powering our homes?

The signs are good. Take the door of the Natuurcafé La Port in Driebergen in the Netherlands – similar to a project undertaken by Fluxxlab. Take the power-generating floors of the Tokyo railway station. It’s not otherworldly technology, although it’ll be years before we see domestic housing using such features as standard. We can’t wait.

Something Sustainable Afoot

Forget polyvinyl flooring – the kind you see poking out of landfills with depressing regularity. Forget synthetic carpets that only really tell you what they’re made of when you singe them, filling the air with a smell you’ll take to your grave. No – we’d rather see acres of cork and bamboo flooring lining the next generation of homes. Green, gorgeous, great potential.

Turfing your Turf

Covering the outside and inside of your house with grass might sound like the work of a deranged golfing fanatic – but it makes sense. Now we’re seeing the concept at work in the street, such as the above fashion store in Seoul, Korea.

Electricity as a Last Resort

As wonderful as the rise of alternate energy is, there’s something we like even more – a home that doesn’t need it. Take the role of sunpipes in casting natural light deep into our homes without the slightest sizzle of power – and how about us rethinking our need to set our homes ablaze in the evenings? Take passive housing. Will the dream house of tomorrow have a dream electricity bill?

Buildings That Make You Sweat

Here in the U.K., obesity has just been labeled “one of the greatest public health threats“. Part of the root cause is lack of exercise – and part of that is surely the rise in modern labor-saving devices. So we applaud designers like Bruce Fowle who want to turn buildings and cities into gentle gyms.

These are our favorites. What are yours? If you’ve found something relevant (or blogged about it), share the link in the comments.

Image credits: Vincent Callebaut Architectures, miniHome, Apartment Therapy, Inhabitat, MAD Ltd, Foster and Partners, Civil Engineering Portal, Globus, Ann Demeulemeester, seeks2dream and Dustin Diaz.

I have a major rug fetish, and no designer has impressed me more than the renowned Christian Rathbone. In fact, his work does more than just impress beholders. It dazzles us. Taking this craft beyond the basics, he is the master of creating fine art for our floors. Plus, all of his pieces are completely handmade to ensure the highest quality and colored with vegetable dyes for an eco-friendly appeal. Are you an abstract addict? Then, you’ll consider the Decline rug one of this talented artist’s most evocative works. Want some insight into Rathbone’s impeccable eye for style? Check out his five favorite decor items as well. (Available at Vivavi for $5,300.)

As Nancy Dong sees it, eco-stylish footwear is the “sophisticated grown-up sister to the old crunchy granola hippie sandals”. The young designer behind Kailia Italian footwear is both a longtime vegetarian and a veteran in the fashion business. Having already created looks for BCBG Max Azria, Ermenegildo Zegna, Charmone Shoes, and Shoes with Souls, we’ll trust this woman with our feet any day.

Nancy moved to Italy and invented Kailia under the principles of cruelty-free and sustainable practices. According to the website, the factories pay fair wages and the company strives to run a “transparent and honest business”. All shoes are handmade in Italy, using water-based glues, chrome-free recycled leather soles, pre-consumer recycled footboards, and animal-free uppers. And what’s more, hemp, organic cotton, and microfiber make for breathable lining. With fun, quirky designs meant to add an air of frivolity to your feet, we’d say Kailia is truly green, from the inside out.

Note: Starting in Spring ‘09, the Kailia line will be entirely vegan.

I’ve never been good at sending holiday cards to friends and family. I enjoy keeping in touch throughout the year via e-mail and phone calls, but when it comes to spreading holiday cheer I fall tragically short. But this year could be different.

I’ve come across a line of stationary that might just cure my aversion to Christmas cards. Red Aphrodite is purely green and its attitude is simple, clever and very vintage. What’s not to like?

Red Aphrodite’s designer and owner, Laura Bolster, uses 100% recycled post-consumer paper to create her unique greeting cards. All her designs are inspired by old travel photos, objects her grandmother collected and eclectic, vintage images of women and birds. She takes scissors to these images, combines them in colorful, creative ways and the end result is a collection of eco-friendly cards for any occasion.

Individual cards are available for $2.95 or in sets of 5 to 8 for $10-$18 online at Etsy and Nest. Or find Red Aphrodite products at a store in your area. For other eco-card ideas, check out Luanne’s post here.