It’s hard not to come across Natalie Chanin’s name in the sustainable design world. Founder of American couture line Alabama Chanin, the designer is noted for her clothing as much as home décor designs and entrepreneurial joie de vivre.

Huge fans, us.

Blame it on her pioneering ways as a designer and CEO of a sustainable American design house. From her home in Florence, Alabama, Chanin works with local artisans to hand quilt, stitch and sew garments into award-winning designs. As a finalist for the Cooper Hewitt National Design Award for Fashion (in 2005), and as a finalist for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund in 2009, Chanin continues to make the world know she’s here to leave her mark in the world of sustainability.

Now, with her second, recently released book Alabama Studio Style, Chanin gives us more ideas to bring forth from the pages of her carefully curated world.

(You can try winning your own copy of her book by leaving a comment here by noon on March 22, 2010.)

I caught up with Natalie over the weekend and she was kind enough to answer some questions.

What drives inspiration for you?

I believe that we all find inspiration in our lives each and every moment of every single day.  I once based an entire collection on a scrap of paper that I found lying on a street corner. Inspiration is all around when we open our eyes. I tend to have the opposite problem – sometimes it is hard to turn the distraction of inspiration off and to focus on what is before me.

I was reading an article where a writer said, “Foreseeing that the elevated cost of a couture garment could potentially isolate customers, Chanin produced her first book, Alabama Stitch Book, which made her techniques, instructions and patterns available to the public.” Are these books an outreach to those women who can’t afford to buy your clothing?

In one way, yes, but the answer to this is more complex and traverses a bit of ground.

The only complaint we have ever received as a company is about the cost of our garments. Everything that we make is completely made by hand and within about an hour-and-a-half radius from my studio in Florence, Alabama. So, not only is it made in America but hand-built – each and every stitch, seam and embellishment (and these embellishments can be very rich and detailed).

At the same time, early in my journey I realized that sewing traditions (and I would go so far as to say survival traditions – everything around food, clothing and shelter) were dying in my community – and communities all over. Very soon after coming home to begin my work with hand sewing, it became clear that it was important to begin to collect stories and techniques about these traditions and to work towards not only incorporating them in my work but using my work as a means towards cultural preservation.

Furthermore, I had just moved home from Europe where – at the time – there was a much greater respect for recycling, taking care of your environment, quality of food and quality of life. I was very surprised to come home to Alabama and find that our food and environmental systems were substantially remiss in looking at the details of our community and our relationship as a community to the greater world.

However, the most important revelation was the realization that making something with my own two hands added substantially to the value of that object in my life.  It had been so long since I had made – and taken care of – the objects that filled my life. In essence, I re-learned that making brings added meaning.

All of these complex factors combined made me embrace this notion of open-sourcing and supported the idea to write the first book (Alabama Stitch Book).

As you mention, our garments are hand-sewn in America and are very expensive. In fact, many of our garments wind up in museums and private collections. If people cannot afford to purchase our garments, we offer our best-selling patterns in our books so they can make the garments themselves – or pay someone in their own communities to make them. We openly sell the fabrics and the supplies to make those garments – the same resources that we use for our collections. And if a client wants to shorten the steps, we offer DIY
Kits that simplify the process.

This philosophy is unheard of in the global fashion industry.

I am proud that Alabama Chanin has chosen to take this route. And honestly, it was a very difficult (and scary) decision to make and was not met with positive feedback from my industry colleagues.

What is interesting is that after the publication of the two books and embracing this open-source philosophy, many people finally understood why our garments are worth so much. In the end, I am very happy to have trusted my instincts and have made that decision. Of course, since that time (6 years ago) the notion of open-sourcing has become very important and I am proud that Alabama Chanin is a part of that.

Did your mother craft with you?

There was always a project at both of my grandmother’s tables and one in the basket to come next. Both of my grandmothers raised three girls and I know from hearing it that they “sewed every dress those girls ever wore.” The next generation – my mother and aunts – did some crafting and sewing back then but are really much more respectful of these traditions today. That time – the 60s and 70s – was really the beginning of consumerism in America. I remember my mother talking about how she did not want to wear a “homemade” dress to school. She and her sisters saved their money from picking cotton in the summer or working at the 5 & Dime so that they had the money for a “store bought dress” to wear to school.

Your involvement with the Bureau of Friends involves modern day sewing circles with people not usually found doing that. These meetings are hugely successful. What is it that crafting does for our psyche and ability to communicate?

I mentioned above that my most important revelation was the realization that making something with my own two hands added substantially to the value of that object in my life.  The concept that “making brings added meaning” is at the core of these meetings with the Bureau of Friends. It is uncanny how deep and rich conversation becomes when men and women sit around a table together and “make” in unison.

What’s different in this book from Alabama Stitch Book?

Alabama Studio Style is a development from Alabama Stitch Book. When I look at the two books together, I can see the process of “growing up.” And while the books are thought of as individual books, they are also companions.  The inclusion of more recipes excites me and I love how these recipes mix and mingle with the way-of-life aspect of the book.

There’s a current trend of going back to things being done properly. Do you feel like your book is a small portal into reconnecting with what we wear or adorn our homes with?

This has certainly been an underlying theme in my work since the beginning. If you sense that in the books, then I am happy and feel proud.

While some sites carry tried and true lines we’ve been following for years, others are peddling cutting edge sustainable fashion – making conscious consumption more provocative than ever.

Here’s a list of what I consider the top 10 eco boutiques. Have at ‘em!

Beklina

I just can’t convey how much I love this site, from the photos to the clothes. Always clean and easy to navigate, Beklina loves their indie designers and is willing to experiment with styles other boutiques are hesitant to try.

Love the Lina Rennell and Mociun offerings as well as these vegan moccasins by Manimal.

Beklina’s site says “Our fashion is modern organic, reflecting Northern California’s grace and beauty,” says Beklina, who believes clothing and design can be “precious, radical, nurturing, healing and wonderful.”

Guess it’s working cause whenever I go to their site, I’m instantly happy.

Embodies

I met Embodies owner Kenlynn Wilson last year at a trade show in New York. I could tell by the look in her eye she was the real deal when it came to being serious about eco.

She bases her criteria on a few things: What fabrics are used in the clothing, where the items are manufactured (and under what conditions), what types of dyes are used in the clothing as well as the packaging the clothes are being shipped in. Curating with a careful eye, Wilson’s due diligence yields a great stable of fashion-forward eco-designers.

Look for Alabama Chanin, Calleen Cordero cuff bracelets and select Linda Loudermilk.

Greenloop

Besides running a fabulous online boutique, Greenloop owner Aysia Wright is commonly used as a resource for both designers and the eco-community. She’s everywhere.

Having just wrapped up her Project Green Search in L.A., Wright’s returned to her home base of Portland, Oregon where she recently moved the brick and mortar Greenloop inside Seven Planet.

Check out the site for a veritable who’s who of eco-designers including Del Forte denim, Charmone shoes (crazy close-outs on them as I write) and Loomstate.

Arboretum

Guided by William McDonough and Michael Braungart’s Hannover Principles on our inter-dependence on nature, Arboretum owners Kate Morison and Andrea Barrett have created their own eco-study of beautiful designed clothing and accessories to show us.

Both women hail from Sonoma County where, they say a connection with the land is a part of their everyday life.
“From the rugged coastline to the majestic redwoods, we have drawn vast inspiration from our environment. Our inspiration and shared vision led us to build an Arboretum.”

Love their picks of Stewart and Brown, Rag & Bone and Prairie Underground.

Clary Sage Organics

After a busy day wearing my blogger and retailer hats, I want to slip on lounging wear with comfort and ease.

Clary Sage is my go to brand for comfy but stylish yoga pants, camisole tops and my very favorite, Convertible Wrap (feels delicious).

In addition to their own line, they have an “After Yoga” section with easy slip on skirts, tunic t-shirts and go-to hoodies.

Just when you thought you were completely satisfied with their clothing selections, they offer a great range of Lotions and Potions including my favorite body care line, Farmaesthetics and perfumes by Tsi~La (Ylang Ylang is mmm…). Search the site for your own new favorites.

Kaight

Kate Macgregor, the founder and owner of Kaight has carefully edited her boutique for men and women that dig clothing and accessories “thoughtfully designed” with organic and sustainable textiles.

Like most of the eco-boutiques listed here, Kaight specializes in emerging and independent designers who use organic, recycled and sustainable materials.

Love their Ashley Watson bags, Melissa Shoe selection as well as Dream & Awake vintage dresses.

Tobi

In addition to their traditional shopping, Tobi offers an Eco-Tobi site which I hope continues to grow.

If you can’t get to the actual brick and mortar shop in San Francisco, their 1-to-1 shopping experience can be had online which involves live chat with one of the owners to get style advice or sizing questions answered before you buy.

Lots of great natural body and hair care lines including Pangea, Hamadi and Pure Fiji as well as basics from Alternative Apparel and tried and true lines by Edun, Prairie Underground and Stewart and Brown.

Jessa Brinkmeyer, owner of Pivot

Pivot
This Chicago-based online boutique is run by Jessa Brinkmeyer on the premise that being eco doesn’t have to be overwhelming.

Brinkmeyer says “A big part of building an eco-smart wardrobe is finding pieces you can keep and love.”

Very true. By picking even one sustainably designed article of clothing from Pivot, you’ve in fact begun your journey.
You might want to start with a great fitting She-Bible cardigan or Lara Miller sweater that will stylishly last you for years.

Sodafine

Sodafine has got to be one of the sweetest shops going.

Based in Brooklyn, the boutique’s owner Erin Weckerle focuses her buying on “innovative and unique handmade clothing, accessories and gift items.”

Weckerle also carries a selective collection of vintage clothing, (I recently was gifted a beautiful vintage slip from a friend who stopped in there) as well as lines utilizing eco-friendly fabrics and sustainable labor practices.

The site says “Many of the items you’ll find at Sodafine are made by individuals who call themselves artists and see their production of clothing/accessories as just one facet of their artistic process…We are eager to assist young artists and craftspeople with information(and inspiration) for marketing their wares. We intend to provide an interesting model of the intersection of art, craft, and fashion at work in everyday life.”

And they have.

Check out great pieces from Feral Childe, Popomomo as well as Sodafine’s own in-house line.

Kind

Kind states that their boutique is for “Living happy, living gently,” which makes me love them all the more.

Mixing sustainably designed as well as vintage finds with things for your nest, Kind is a one-stop shop with quality pieces, consciously handpicked to really reflect their store.

Check out clothing by Mika Machida and Nixxi as well as shoes by Neuaura and Olsen Haus.

Don’t be pining away for the disposable tree when you can conceive a brilliant alternative, like Tara and Thyme’s rendition carved of recycled wood and copper pipe. How lively are their branches! Even the star is close to the spirit of the nativity, made from the siding of an old barn. Other stamps of creativity are the gold leaf garland and laser cut ornaments.

The drying rack may not have that evergreen scent but it is something that endures long after New Year’s day. Just locate that collection of ornaments form the basement and have at it. Yes, this inspiration from Re-Nest grows on you.

Cozy up to felt this year with this soft and clean option from cb2. It’s the Coneheads’ fave.

The Cardboard Christmas Tree is a real seasonal cut-up, destined to have you playing workshop elf for hours, adding your own personal touch to the sustainable alternative. Another paper option is the modern and minimal Pop-Up Tabletop Holiday Tree from the MoMA Store.

Prune a yuletide tune, drying out your winter flowers and shaping like a tree. Follow the steps on Ehow with a hydrangea arrangement. Prop it in your entryway to set the seasonal tone.

The current economic climate has been nothing short of brutal for many eco-designers, but where there are challenges, there are also opportunities for growth.

SUST, an eco-label out of San Francisco, sees their own challenges as a way to reconnect with America and carry the torch for sustainable apparel.

Kicking off a “Sustainability Across America” tour co-sponsored by EcoSalon, cmarchuska, Indigenous Designs, I love Ryann, Restore Clothing and Guayaki Yerba Matte tea, the tour will tape interviews with industry experts, specialty clothing boutiques and “friends” along the way, which will be shared via social media like Twitter and Facebook as well as at their blog, getsust.

The brainchild of Kevin Baum, CEO of SUST, the trip will serve not only to increase awareness of the SUST brand, but act as a grassroots marketing effort to create connections at the store level and garner a greater knowledge about how real Americans view words like “organic” and “sustainable.”

Despite what you may think, Baum says collaborating with the other designers on the tour isn’t competition, but rather, collaboration.

“We help each other whenever we can, share ideas, and work together to grow the market for organic and sustainable goods,” says Baum. “We’re much more complementary than competitive. Our competition, by contrast, comes from companies who are not organic or sustainable in their practices, and who can offer their goods at much lower prices because of that.”

From San Francisco, mobile meetings with Baum will involve SUST’s  brand ambassador (and van driver), Laura Jones.

Jones will not only promote her three-month trip across America through personal interviews with the eco-community but will also feature some of our nation’s most beautiful parks and monuments. The SUST crew hopes that by taking this approach documenting the natural splendor of a place we call home, it will remind us all of the resources and landscape this new sustainable generation represents and works hard to protect.

I caught up with Laura before she took to the open road.

What is the most exciting aspect of this trip for you as brand ambassador?

I’m excited to experience the sustainable movement coming to life by meeting the people who are its motor and experiencing the nature that is protected as the fruit of their labor. This journey began as an exploration of the country I’ve called home for many years, but has grown into an endeavor to experience not just the place, but the people, culture and even the commerce that make it what it is.

It’s exciting to take this broad notion of the green movement and a love for fashion and marry them together in a totally unique, fun and collaborative way. This is really an opportunity to meet our fellow partners in both fashion and green commerce and to make friends, learn about their missions and projects and help champion their successes. I think the most rewarding aspect of the journey as SUST’s ambassador is the opportunity to connect with like minded people, learn about their contributions, and to be able to paint a real picture of the industry, the movement and the nation in a very human way.

What do you hope this campaign will promote first and foremost for SUST?

I hope this journey will help promote the collaborative energy that fuels the sustainable movement. The movement itself seems like a very high-level, ethereal concept, but the reality is that it’s individual people, working to build and change the way we think and live.

This trip is an effort to extend the hand, to engage our community and to build friendships so that together we can all help one another thrive and achieve in our efforts towards a common goal.

Where can we follow you on social media and will you be making daily posts?

You can all follow me on our Facebook fan page – www.facebook.com/getsust – on Twitter @getsust, and on our blog at getsust.blogspot.com.
I’ll be posting as often as possible, but will have to recess into the wifi-free wilderness of our National Parks every so often! You can expect to hear a lot from me while on the road and in urban areas, and to get full reports of the back-country adventures when I get back in range.

One sentence that sums up how you see the future of sustainable design?

Sustainable design is already going mainstream, continually making inroads into the fashion industry with something that not only feels good and has a sense of style, but is better for the environment as well.

An amie gave me one of these pretty French market baskets for my birthday and I have put it to use more than I could have imagined. It sits in my dressing room next to a setee when not in use to store clothes that need to be put away. I also have employed it as intended – as a reusable shopping basket for the farmers’ market – and even as a travel carry-on for magazines and kid snacks. Since they don’t fasten securely, it is best to use them for non-valuables (not that a snack for a hungry child on a flight isn’t valuable).

Several beautiful styles are available from Maison de Kristine, which says it sells the woven shoppers to cut down on disposable bags from stores (three million plastic ones used annually). This peddler of French decor also aids the farmers of Moroccan villages, who receive extra income from weaving the baskets out of sustainably grown palm leaf, water reed and wild grasses.

There are several tote styles available, my favorite being the traditional one featured above. They range from $36 to $50. Little dogs not included.

Seems everyone is getting in shipshape for spring with crisp navy blues and whites – guided by map-themed pillows and illuminated by the glow of romantic hurricane lighting. I’ve always been a sucker for a sailor dress. So ship and flag wallpaper and blue-and-white striped rugs really float my boat!

Here’s what I roped in from some of the sea-worthy (and green) home decor sources:

From sea to shining sea, it’s better to shop with a reusable tote (too many consumers are still not following rank), like this nautical one made of recycled sail cloth from previously cruised or raced sails from around the world. The durable and graphic sail number design is constructed of crisp white Dacron sailcloth with extra long webbing strap handles and a vinyl inner lining for easy cleaning. This all-purpose tote is a better way to carry groceries and helps keep our oceans clean! $79 at Nautical Luxuries.

Navy trim embroidered on soft white organic bedding offers ocean dreams without the mercury and dyes. Available in separates (sheeting, duvet, cases) at Feel More Human.

From VivaTerra, these delightful tropical fish vases, $22, are mouth-blown from thin, yet strong borosilicate, and set the beachy tone for the dinner or coffee table. The taller striped bass is perched on a pedestal; the optic fish features fanning fins. Insert a pretty flower and decorate with sand or beach glass to net a great look. Set of 2, 50% off, just $22.

A great accent on sea or land, the Inhabit Kelp Throw Pillow in the aqua color way that looks so cool with deeper blues, $60 to $68. Made from 100% recycled polyester from 2 Modern.

Roll out the barrel or ship in a bottle with this beachy blue-and-white striped rug from Dalarna Scandinavian, $97, woven with 50% recycled plastic strips. It’s also hypoallergenic and mildew resistant. Fish for it at Indoor Outdoor. The fun vintage nautical wallpaper (shown at top) is $19 a roll at Design Your Wall.

New from Williams Sonoma for spring is this  18″ white shell wreath. Treasures from the sea, including sand dollars, star fish and sea urchin shells are sustainably harvested and nestled in a spiral of softly hued natural beach grasses and foliage.

When it comes to sustainable design, outdoor clothing and accessories giant Patagonia has hit the mark from operations to product by staying true to its do-no-harm ethic.

With their recent design and construction of a 171,000-square-foot addition to the already impressive 342,000 square foot Reno distribution center, Patagonia secured itself the level of LEED gold certification including utilizing insulation and window glass that contained recycled materials, using energy-efficient lighting systems and motion sensors to help conserve electricity, a radiant heating system with copper tubing and hot water to save on natural gas during the heating season, tiles and carpet with some recycled content and wood used in construction that was either reclaimed or harvested in a sustainable way.

We say cheers to Patagonia and all the other environmental programs you willingly participate in. You make our green hearts turn a shade of red.

Now, let’s just hope others follow your lead.

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